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A little Paris, London, Spain all wrapped in a gorgeous package called Buenos Aires!



Thank god for the two sea days between Rio and Buenos Aires - because I don't think I could have done it! But rested and ready for 2 days in this incredible city I was!

Once again - I sound like a broken record - we went with a guide from Get Your Guide. I swear these people should hire me to do their PR cuz I am already doing it for free!


Paola a former insurance agent turned guide was there to get us for a 4 hour city tour. Leaving the port area we passed a mini Big Ben - a gift from the British that now is called something else since they "issues" with the British. We then drove through an area called Recoleta ( the Paris of Argentina) where all these incredible homes that are now embassies. He drove us past the balcony where Evita Peron gave her famous speech, past the National Art Museum, government buildings, the mini broadway district and onto what is apparently the largest road in the world with 8 lanes of traffic. We stopped in another part of Recoleta (there's Recoleta Soho, Recoleta Noho etc) where there is the famous cemetery where Evita (plot E4) under her maiden name Eva Duarte and many politicians and high profile actors and dignitaries are buried and a gorgeous church next door. It's this incredible white facade and next door is a multi-colored cultural building where Paolo told us every 2-3 months they completely change the entire facade.



I took a moment to stop and listen to this incredible street musician playing under the sweltering heat. The trees around the cemetery are something on their own to see - the trunks are so massive they have metal poles just to hold them up. And someone got creative and had a statue made in 2004 of a man carrying one of the trunks. Apparently their goal is make more of these to "art up" the tree. But the one they do have is amazing. This little corner of Buenos Aires is charming - there is a famous coffee shop called La Biela on one corner and La Panera Rosa (this crazy all pink building )on the other side.



As our time with Paolo was coming to an end he took us to an area call Caminito in the neighborhood of La Boca. It's apparently where the Irish settled in BA and with no money they used scraps of metal and wood to build their houses and left over paint to decorate - resulting in this gorgeous multicolored neighborhood. We found an incredible place for lunch where meat was cooking on several open fires and Dre and I had chorizo (sausage) and it was delish! The restaurant itself was so quirky with antiques and vintage furniture combined with painted wooden tables and A town where meat is everywhere.



Hot and tired we made our way back to the ship via a new area called Puerto Madera - with restaurants, shops, bars and more along the water right next to our port. It's a growing area with new apartments and condos under construction.



That night we decided to go against all our rules and do a "ship excursion" to a night of dinner and Tango. We knew the food would suck but we figured to give us a break from getting from point A to B - we'd hop on a bus with the rest of the cattle and make our way to the famous Cafe Los Angelitos. I won't traumatize you with the getting there experience. I wanted to kill every ship guest who apparently leave their manners somewhere and rush to get to the buses like they are going to leave without them. Ugh this is why we should just UBER everywhere. 99% of the guest on this ship are from France, Spain, Germany and I think out of 2000 people there are 44 Americans. They were definitely not on this bus. The bus we were on was for Germans and English so the guide has to translate each line and if I heard the word prostitute said in English and/or German one more time I was gonna scream. But the history of the Tango and how it was considered back in the day too sensual to do in public.



We were hearded into the dining room of this gorgeous and old cafe where we were seated at these long banquet tables and you just knew that these waiters were used the "gringos" coming into the cafe nightly for the show and they had 2 hours to serve us appetizers, dinner and something that resembled desert.


Finally at 10pm the Tango show started and wow - I have to say that there really is nothing sexier than watching real dancers dance. The Tango is such a sensual dance and the moves are so technical. I watched in awe as legs were tossed in between other legs and bodies swing around the stage. It was a feast for the eyes and the music was wonderful.



We got back to the ship much later than our normal bedtime and both of us passed out! We still had another day.

The next day Dre wanted to try and catch a local AA meeting which was in English. So he and I went to a market I found online in old town. It's a combination of antique stores, vintage book stores and meat meat and more meat. We were able to wander together for awhile before he got into a cab and we figured we'd meet somewhere later in the day. I strolled the market and the streets, feeling very safe and landed at a small cafe where I called an Uber. I figured I wanted to check out Recoleta again and walk around by the cemetery and some of the back streets we hadn't had a chance to see the day before. I called an Uber and up rolled a kid who I swear didn't look old enough to have a license in a car with all the windows down (no AC) and I thought dear God here we go. Well they say don't judge a book by it's cover and I am sure glad I didn't.



I met my new friend Muhammed born in Buenos Aires but his family are from India who was driving an Uber for extra money before he starts college in the Fall. His family is from India - he has 5 brothers and he is the middle child. His dad is an importer of fashion from India, batteries and flashlights! His English was beyond perfect but more important he was just a JOY with a smile that could light up a room. A great tour guide and I encouraged him to get his guiding license so his Uber drives could be worth more! While driving me I got a text from Dre who said his meeting was no longer at the location so Muhammed and I turned around and went to get him. I learnt Muhammed lived in Recolata himself with his whole family and he showed us a really cool street to walk along and check out. He dropped us off in front of a very famous bookstore El Ateneo Grand Splendid, that is in a 100 year old theatre and it was amazing. From the old theatre ticket offices to the balcony that displayed best sellers and the ceiling that was so high.

I got Muhammed's number and he agreed to get us in a few hours and take us back to the ship! I loved this kid! I promised him anyone I knew going to BA would get his name and number. He knows the city and he was born and raised there. PS Since we left a few days ago he and I are now Whatsapp buddies and I love him! I am only sad I didn't get a photo with him! So Muhammed I know you're reading this - send me a picture of your gorgeous smiling face!



We walked and walked and walked and I was shocked when we got back to the ship and Dre checked - we walked a total of 22K steps that day alone. I honestly don't know how I did it.


I fell in love with BA. It's almost like it's a little Paris, Spain, London and BA all wrapped up into one city. It's diverse, modern in areas and historical in others, it's people are so friendly and charming and the tango is everywhere. On streets, on tables in restaurants and in shows in their mini broadway.

If you get a chance to visit - you must and you must find Muhammed and he will show you around the city with the biggest smile on his face! We will definitely be back. Not sure when but it's on the list!

1 Comment


Guest
Feb 02, 2023

great post...makes me want to go there so much.

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